“If you really want to make a friend, go to someone’s house and eat with him… the people who give you their food give you their heart.” – Cesar Chavez
In Croatia’s Dalmatia region, the people are warm, engaging, and generous with invitations to share a shot of rakia, a plate of pršut (dry-cured ham) or a hearty peka meal. Our Dalmatian friends are no different, and in the past weeks they’ve been keeping us entertained with things to do in Split. Let’s just say that Croatian food and wine have been featuring prominently on the agenda.
One Sunday afternoon, we met our friends, Srđan and Jakša, in a cluster of seven towns next to Split called Kaštela. Although it was late morning, a few fishermen were still out on the bay. Jakša’s friend had recently delivered a fresh catch of seafood to Jakša’s seaside home and business. We would grill the fish later in the afternoon at Jakša’s vineyard cottage, 400 meters above the steel-grey Adriatic Sea.
The four of us hopped into Jakša’s so-called ‘vineyard car’ and as soon as we hit the bumpy roads on the way up Kozjak Mountain, we knew why Jakša favored the heavy-duty truck. The crates of lunch and dinner provisions danced in their receptacles; wine bottles clinked against each other, and stray branches whipped against the windows of Jakša’s truck.
As we ascended the mountain, the views of the Croatian islands and Adriatic became increasingly phenomenal. Sensing Shawn’s and my enthusiasm at the sight of ruins and a tiny stone church, Jakša pulled off the rugged roads and allowed us to take in the sensational panorama. He and Srđan also encouraged me to ring the church’s bell. I felt incredibly mischievous as I pulled the long string, causing the sound of the bells to echo off the mountain and down into Kaštela.
Arriving at Jakša’s vineyard cottage, which he built himself six years ago, the views took our breath away. Split and the surrounding area now looked miniature in scale. The islands of Brač, Hvar, and Šolta emerged from the sparkling water, and the rocky slopes of Kozjak Mountain dwarfed Jakša’s stone house. Our friends lamented that we weren’t seeing the grounds dressed in summer foliage, but we were wowed by the sight of massive rosemary bushes, olive trees, and wild green vegetation. Jakša’s three acres of vineyards had the cliché million-dollar view. Actually, it was more like two-million.
Jakša wasted no time in offering us a shot of walnut rakia, starting a fire in the stone fireplace, prepping a lunchtime omelette and the palamida (a beautiful mackerel-like fish known in English as Atlantic Bonito). As we would soon discover over a delightful glass of Jakša’s own 2011 Marastina white wine, the omelette was studded with other goodies, including onions sautéed in Jakša’s own olive oil, bacon, sage, and escargots. The snails had been gathered from the premises. While I abstained from eating the bacon and snails to suit my ‘selectarian’ diet, the gentlemen devoured them with great gusto.
White wine gradually transitioned to a series of brilliant reds, including a 2011 Bedalov Zinfandel (Crljenak), a 2010 Kairos Zinfandel and a 2003 Stagnum Plavac. (Plavac is a blend between Zinfandel and Dobričić grapes.) Since we were in the ancestral home of Zinfandel, it seemed fitting to enjoy the exceptional bottles from Jakša’s vineyard, Kairos and Stagnum, while overlooking the surrounding hillsides on which Zinfandel wine has been grown for the past 1,000 years.
As Srđan, Shawn and I savored the 11 year-old Stagnum, Jakša tended to the fish grilling in the fireplace. Eventually, he brought out a stainless steel platter loaded with fish steaks, glimmering in olive oil perfection. He also presented a pot brimming with a mélange of 10 types of cooked, wild greens drizzled with olive oil. From fennel, to dandelion and wild onions, the simple combination was superb. Jakša would later marinate the remaining fish-steak in a marinade of olive oil, onions, red wine vinegar, and rosemary, creating leftovers that we would savor at our apartment in the following days.
While relaxing on the terrace, we marveled at how natural and sustainable so much of the experience was. Jakša’s home was solar-powered and the food was sourced from his property or the nearby sea. And, he expressed a great passion for holding on to family traditions.
“When I am creating these dishes, I am looking for flavors I grew up with. I am inspired by wine flavors my grandfather created, and the food flavors from my grandmother. As a result, they’re making their way into the future,” he explained through Srđan, who acted as translator.
Srđan was quick to point out that such a practice is becoming increasingly uncommon, even in Croatia. Srđan himself runs the Art of Wine, a small business dedicated to providing customized wine and culinary experiences to small groups of tourists. He partners with winemakers and chefs like Jakša.
“Jakša’s family eats just like this, and this is how he cooks for them. He also enjoys sharing his food and wine with others,” Srđan added.
Since Shawn and I have so far had a penchant for off-season-travel to Croatia, we asked Srđan what Dalmatian foods he might offer to guests who go on his summer tours.
“The menu usually includes smoked fish, mussels, oysters, peka, squid or cuttlefish. Young lamb and goat are exceptionally delicious in Croatia, and we slow cook them on a spit. We focus on local cuisine from local producers. Depending on the time of year, you’ll get what’s in season,” he said.
“I decided to dedicate time to telling stories of people like Jakša. People like him have stories that deserve to be told. We don’t want massive tourism to destroy this. Our experiences are for small numbers of people. We want people who will appreciate it.”
The sun had transitioned into a magnificent, orange hue. Since our Croatian friends had their backs to the sunset, I decided to draw their attention to it.
“Oooh,” Jakša said with awe, as if seeing it for the first time.
I find it refreshing that Jakša had seen so many of these sunsets, but yet he doesn’t take the beauty for granted.
It was a fitting way to end a splendid afternoon brimming with Croatian food, wine, and culture, from a Dalmatian vineyard 400 meters above the Adriatic. Hvala lijepa, friends!
Seagulls watch on as a fishing boat sits on the bay separating Split from Kaštela.
Gorgeous views of the Adriatic Sea from Kaštela, and clusters of mussels hug a seaside wall.
The rugged road weaving up Kozjak Mountain towards Jakša’s vineyard cottage and hillside ruins.
A small stone church on Kozjak Mountain. With our Croatian hosts’ urging, I couldn’t resist ringing the bell. :)
The stunning Adriatic Sea, and the islands of Brač, Hvar, and Šolta off in the distance.
Shawn, Srđan and Jakša take in the stunning panorama before continuing our final ascent.
Next to ruins on Kozjak Mountain, Srđan and Jakša pose by the “vineyard car.” On the right, a wine caddy holds bottles of Croatian red and white wine.
Tending to the fire in which our fish will be grilled. On the right, a bottle of walnut-flavored Rakia, Croatia’s version of Grappa or moonshine. The stuff is so strong that I can only taste it with my tongue!
Unharvested olives and the beautiful palamida fish, which Jakša would later grill for the four of us.
With a splendid view of the Adriatic Sea, Croatian islands and Split in the background, I pick olives from one of the trees on Jakša’s vineyard. The olive harvest usually takes place in October or November. As Jakša explained, these trees’ olives were considered too young to harvest, so they were left unpicked.
Srđan pours a scintillating, straw-colored glass of 2011 Marastina, from the Bedalov Winery. As Srđan noted, Marastina is similar to a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. On the right, corks creatively form a trivet to support hot dishes.
Jakša’s yard is dotted with waist-height bushes of rosemary, even in January. He uses the rosemary in copious amounts to flavor his Croatian cuisine.
Cheers! Or, as they say in Croatia, Živjeli!
Golden hues abound: an omelette filled with escargots and bacon, a glass of Marastina, and the vibrant flowers of a succulent plant.
Jakša’s south-facing terrace is bathed in sunlight from sunrise to sunset. He referred to this as a “natural anti-depressant.”
Srđan described this view as having “Central Dalmatia in the palm of your hand.” On the right, he opens a 2003 Stagnum Plavac.
The cozy gathering room and kitchen in Jakša’s cottage and the fireplace where Jakša grilled our Croatian seafood, caught by his friend that morning.
Croatian food at its best: grilled palamida, a mackerel-like fish known in English as Atlantic bonito. On the side, Jakša served a brilliant blend of ten wild greens (mišanca) which he picked himself from the surrounding hillsides. Both were drizzled with bountiful amounts of Dalmatian olive oil. We marveled that we’d never sampled these vegetables before!
Jakša’s father’s sunhat, which adorns his cottage fireplace. When I asked him about the hat’s origins, Jakša fetched his own and started hamming it up for the camera.
A dormant grape vine overlooking the islands of Central Dalmatia.
Rosemary bushes in the late afternoon sunlight.
Jakša’s vineyard and the view.
Where in the World?
Planning Pointers:
- You’re probably thinking that we’re lucky to count Srđan and Jakša among our circle of Croatian friends, and we are! If you’ll be in the Split area and also want to learn about Croatian food and wine, get in touch with them through the Art of Wine. Be sure to give them at least one day’s notice.
- Also, if you’ll be staying in the Split area for three days or more, be sure to pick up a free Split Card, which gives you free entry to certain museums and galleries, and reduced rates to others. If you’ll be in Split for less than three days you can purchase the card for 5 Euro.
- Need more inspiration? This link contains an index of all my posts from Croatia.
Photography & text © by Tricia A. Mitchell. All Rights Reserved. Video footage is courtesy of my husband, Shawn.
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Filed under: Featured, Food and Wine, Travelogues Tagged: Adriatic Sea, Croatia, Croatian cuisine, Croatian food, Croatian seafood, Croatian wine, foodie experience, Split, things to do in Split, travel
